Snug and welcoming Vín og Skel

Its always a pleasure to welcome a new establishment to that elusive club of affordable, yet enjoyable restaurants in Reykjavík. Vín og Skel, opened in September 2005, deserves a place here, despite a few rough edges.

Vín og Skel features a 3-course Special of the Day for ISK 3950, putting it in the range of establishments you could afford to visit more than once in a blue moon, and within this writers narrow opinion of affordable.

Even more important, however, is my second point: enjoyable. Kristján Nói Sæmundsson, Vín og Skels proprietor, is clearly emotionally invested in his project. He has created an ambiance that is snug and welcoming (when I say snug, read that there are so few tables that you should book ahead). Even the entrance, through a small alley and into a courtyard, pays homage to the restaurants inspiration of a small family-run French village bistro.

Kristján Nói himself was the ideal host. He was friendly, knowledgeable about the wine and creative in his creation of the daily special.

If only the other staff were like him. For Vín og Skel also fell victim to that all-too-common disease of the Reykjavík restaurant scene mediocre service. Yes, it was friendly, and far from incompetent, but it was some time before anyone took our order, a task which was accomplished without asking what we would like to drink. The young waiter was also unable to answer questions about the menu and when our starter arrived I actually had to reach across the table to bring the dish close enough to my place to eat. These are quibbles, perhaps, but I was expecting better.

Otherwise, the food, which includes offerings of snails, mussels and other shellfish, was unpretentiously presented, well matched with accompaniments, and fresh tasting. The salt fish restored my faith that this method of preparation could yield something tender and flavourful. The ginger crème brûlée could have been more bruléed, and then perhaps the middle wouldnt have been cold as it was, but once again Im trifling. Overall, it was a meal which matched the setting perfectly.

Vín og Skel is definitely worth a visit, just keep your fingers crossed that its the owner who serves you.

- Reviewed by Eliza Reid